Back to School: A Couple of Red Wines You’ve Never Heard Of

Saturday, September 19, 2015

Carrie Wynkoop, GoLocalPDX Contributor

The best part about my job is introducing people to new wineries – and even new varietals – that they’ve never heard of. There are a lot of unusual wines being made all over Oregon that are extraordinary.

Ever heard of Tannat or Muscadet or Auxerrois? All of these are being made in small batches here in Oregon by wonderfully obsessed winemakers dedicated to bringing unusual varietals to your table.

So to honor the back-to-school season, we’ve dedicated our September selections at Cellar 503 to learning about unusual varietals. Last time, we talked about the whites. Now it’s time to talk about some amazing reds that you’ve likely never heard of – Baco Noir and a blend of Primitivo and Petite Sirah.

Baco Noir has been called “America’s most patriotic wine”. In the late 1800s, an infestation of the phylloxera bug wiped out Europe’s vineyards. Hard-pressed to restore wine production, vineyard managers cross-bred vines with American vines. One, Francois Baco, managed to produce a hit – Baco Noir – a crossbreed of Folle Blanche (a white grape used in Cognac) and an unknown American vine. Grown in cold-weather climes through the Midwest, New York, and Canada, Baco Noir was first brought to Oregon by Phillipe Girardet in the 1970’s.

Growing up near the headwaters of the Rhone, Philippe Girardet was frustrated by the rules, regulations, and stodgy traditions of European winemaking. So, after a chance visit to the Umpqua Valley on vacation, he came back to Oregon and founded Girardet Cellars in 1971. Oregon was a place where experimentation and new ideas were welcome, so it’s no surprise that Philippe was the first winemaker in Oregon to grow Baco Noir.

Today, you’ll still run into Phillippe in the tasting room outside Roseburg, but the winemaking duties now belong to his son, Marc. The youngest winemaker in Oregon when he started, just 24 years old, Marc’s also made a name for himself.

This month we’re featuring Girardet’s 2013 Baco Noir - a dense, multi-layered wine with a deep garnet color and flavors of cassis, blueberry, and plum that mingle with silky elements of spice and mocha. A long, lingering finish with smooth tannins and bright acidity keeps the taste fresh.

Our second red is the 2013 Ethan Cole, a blend of Primitivo and Petite Sirah, from LaBrasseur Vineyard in Southern Oregon. Grown extensively in Italy, Primitivo is hard-to-find but increasingly popular in Oregon. Most experts agree that Primitivo has some genetic relation to Zinfandel but the exact relationship is up for serious debate. Petite Sirah provides a nice counterpoint to the intensity of the Primitivo. Popular in California, this grape has started to move north over the border. As a blending grape, it adds body and spice, while toning down tannins. And no, it has nothing to do with traditional Syrah grapes!

This unusual, deep-colored blend has lovely aromas of currant and black cherry, earthy sweet tobacco, and spicy anise. You can taste these aromas in the wine, along with oak and vanilla, and a full mouthfeel and moderate tannins that lead to a long, spicy finish.

I’m thrilled to be able to include a wine from LaBrasseur Vineyard. Because in many ways, it’s where I found the inspiration for Cellar 503.

You see, after my first visit to their beautiful property – literally over the river and through the woods (and up a long, gravel road) outside of Medford – one idea stuck with me: “This place is in the middle of nowhere, but everyone needs to know about this wine!”

Fred and Candy LaBrasseur started the winery in 2011 as their ‘retirement project’. Fred had just finished a 34-year career in the Medford Fire Department and they wanted to grow something on their property in White City, Oregon. After consulting with a few folks in the area, they decided that grapes were the perfect crop. But they didn’t just want to grow grapes, they decided to take on the winemaking as well.

With a lot of hard work, a little luck and some great advice from fellow winemakers in Southern Oregon, they planted their vines and built their winery by hand. And today, they harvest their grapes and bottle their wines all by themselves.

This passion and ingenuity – and the extraordinary wine that comes from it – truly is an inspiration!

It’s so much fun to explore new wines, new winemakers and new regions of the state. Hopefully you’ll learn something and find a new favorite wine!

Cheers!

Carrie

Carrie Wynkoop is the founder of Cellar 503, a new wine club featuring unique, high quality, affordable wines that represent the full range of great Oregon wine. Cellar 503 is for anyone who loves Oregon wine and wants to explore.