Love on the Halfshell: Oregon Oysters
Tuesday, February 17, 2015
Oysters become full of sweet-tasting glycogen in the winter months. In early summer they start to spawn, becoming less sweet and more ‘fishy’ tasting. By late summer they are shriveled and flavorless.
Like most fresh food, oysters take on qualities from the climate in which they are grown. Estuary oysters have a heavenly creamy texture, while ocean-grown oysters are brinier.
The type of algae they feed on tints their taste to hints of copper, lemon or cucumber. The Olympia or Yaquina oyster (Ostrea lurida) is Oregon’s native species. Small and delicate, the pioneers and gold rushers happily feasted on them off Oregon’s craggy beaches.
The fun on the half shell continued until the little darlings almost went extinct. The Pacific (Crassostrea gigas) is now the most commonly farmed oyster in the world. Originating in Japan, the Pacific oyster has replenished the world’s supply that had dwindled from overfishing and disease. The Kumamoto (Crassostrea sikamea) is a newer Japanese transplant which also thrives this side of the Pacific.
For a hot oyster date, stop off at Dan and Louis Oyster Bar on Monday or Tuesday for happy hour prices all winter (208 SW Ankeny), or check out North Portland's Cajun eatery, EaT, which features oysters on the half shell, shooters, and small plates of baked oysters done up a dozen ways (3808 N. Williams Ave).
How to Shuck Oysters
If it’s your first time, take a shot of whiskey first. It might be awhile. Slide on rubber gloves or wrap your hand in a dish towel. Dig out that silly oyster knife you got at your wedding and thought you’d never use. Insert the knife a half inch from the hinge of the oyster until the knife goes in at least an inch. Twist the knife, prying the shell open. YouTube will make it look easy. It’s not. You have achieved master status when you can pry open the shell without spilling the briny liquor inside. Keep drinking whiskey until you have shucked enough or you have given up and had your wife do it for you.
Oysters Rockefeller
This recipe is built to impress. Oysters on the half shell are baked on top of garlicky spinach with a crispy panko and parmesan topping. Pair with an espresso stout.
Ingredients:
2 dozen oysters, shucked
1/4 cup butter
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
2 cups baby spinach, coarsely chopped
2 green onion, sliced
2 tablespoons celery, finely diced
2 tablespoons anise liqueur (optional)
Cayenne, salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
1/4 cup parmigiano reggiano, grated
2 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled
Directions:
- Shuck the oysters placing them in a baking pan filled with rock salt to keep them level and prevent the juices from spilling.
- Melt the butter in a pan over medium heat, add the garlic, saute until fragrant, about a minute and mix half of the garlic butter into the breadcrumbs.
- Add the spinach, green onion and celery to the pan and cook until the spinach wilts.
- Add the anise liqueur, deglaze the pan and allow most of the liquid to evaporate and remove from heat before seasoning with cayenne, salt and pepper to taste.
- Mix the parsley and parmesan into the breadcrumbs.
- Place a heaping teaspoon of the mixture onto each oyster followed by some bacon and the breadcrumbs.
- Bake in a preheated 450F oven until golden brown, about 10-15 minutes.
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