Making Nocino — Italian Walnut Liqueur
Saturday, June 27, 2015
See Slideshow Below: Making Nocino — Italian Walnut Liqueur
In recent years, however, the starving squirrels and chipmunks have begun eating the walnuts by mid-August but come October, there are none left. My little dog responds to the word "squirrel" in a comic heartbeat and chases them up the tree. They gleefully fly through the branches dropping husks on us while making loud scraping sounds with their chipmunk teeth, taunting us down below, as we try to relax in the hammock on the dog days of summer.
Last year, someone suggested making nocino—a perfect way to at least enjoy some walnuts before the squirrels wipe them out.
On June 24, in Italy and in Portland, the walnuts are young and tender enough to be cut through with a knife. Walnut husks are deep brown and make a potent dye, so take care to wear gloves when handling this stone fruit. Historically walnut dye was used for hair, as an ink, and to dye wool into a beautiful brown color.
To make nocino, Find an organic walnut tree, a fabulous jar, like my "handmade in Italy" green glass jar, and fill it with quartered young walnuts, husk and all. Add lemon zest, cinnamon sticks, cloves, and a split vanilla bean to the jar and fill it with Everclear. Cover the jar and let it brew for 40 days. The recipe is easy, it just requires patience!
Everclear is known to many Oregonians. I had never heard of it, but I marched out of the Oregon liquor store with a giant bottle to begin the nocino process. This big bottle of Everclear began what became my year long experimentation in the kitchen with liqueurs: after the nocino, there were figs, after the figs, there were plums, bringing us around to winter and the limoncello with lemons I brought back from LA, to my spring rucolino with arugula, and last week's start on apricot liqueur!
At the 40 day point, make a simple syrup with 4 cups of water and 3 cups of sugar, cool completely to room temperature. Filter the alcohol from the walnuts and spices, and add the cooled simple syrup to it. Once again, put the jar aside for 40 more days or wait until Christmas to decant it into small bottles for friends. The black, nutty infused alcohol is rich, potent, sweet, and smooth after months of curing. It can be enjoyed in a tiny glass, drizzled over ice cream, or even as a flavoring for homemade ice cream or custards.
What we know as English walnut trees originated in Iran (Persia) and used to be called Persian walnuts. A traditional Mediterranean way to preserve green walnuts is a rather elaborate process involving a sugar syrup. Another is to pickle them in a salt brine first and end with a spiced vinegar to preserve them. For me, the idea of making nocino has the most appeal and my friends love the results! And the squirrels didn't seem to mind, either. Salute!
Remember, as my mother Alice said, "If you make it with love, it will be delicious!"
© linda dalal sawaya 2015
Related Slideshow: Making Nocino — Italian Walnut Liqueur
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